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Kurdish Cuisine… With a Side of Guilt

In the half-dozen trips I’ve taken to Kurdistan, not ONCE have we been able to finish the food on our table, whether we’re a party of two or of 8. Part of the charm and tradition of Kurdish hospitality is cooking and serving too much… that way if others drop by, there’s always some to […]

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Hiwa’s Do-It-Yourself Dolma Recipe

On the road, a home-cooked meal is an absolute luxury: a respite from the impersonal hotels and convivial but antiseptic restaurants that greet us at the end of each day. In Northern Iraq, we were invited (hooray!) to Hiwa’s house for his casual take on a traditional Middle Eastern dish, dolma.  Now, I knew dolma only as stuffed grape leaves. […]

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Modern Meatballs and Delicious Dumplings in Istanbul

You can eat very, very well in Istanbul. Even with zero language skills, the point-and-nod method can get you amazing kebabs, shwarma, roast chestnuts, the donut-shaped pastry known as simit, and enough baklava to put you in a honey coma. And the street food scene has excellent company with a handful of modern restaurants serving […]

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Reindeer and Lingonberries, but not a Meatball in Sight

Gothenburg, Sweden, is one of these Scandi towns on the cutting edge of New Nordic cuisine. Tasting menus abound, and Michelin stars are scattered about this coastal city like snowflakes. But for those of us without the time or the budget (and when working on deadline, who does have those things?) for a seven-course extravaganza […]

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