Archive | What

IMG_0095

Tunis: Dine in the Souk… Or Eat with the Locals

Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, has one of the most amazing souks in the Middle East: a warren of stone streets lined with perfume shops, shoemakers, cafes, and countless souvenir hawkers. There is an amazing restaurant in the middle of the souk – Dar el Jeld – and if I hadn’t been working so hard, for such […]

Continue Reading
IMG_0010_2

Quick Snack: Cereal… with a Treat

Presented nearly without comment…. Methinks many people in this unnamed hotel in Antakya, Turkey, are NOT eating cereal. These flakes must be several years old. This bug is slightly newer, but had a very nice life in the plastic tube of breakfast-y goodness. Perhaps he ate himself to death. Thankfully, I saw him before I […]

Continue Reading
photo 1

Kebab (of course!) and Baked Hummus in Adana

As our plane made its late-night descent into the Turkish town of Adana, I turned toward my seatmate, a young airplane mechanic who grew up here, in the Southern part of the country. “What’s the one thing I’ve got to eat while I’m in town?” I asked. “Adana Kebab, of course!” He replied. “It’s the […]

Continue Reading
pak8

Fresh Crabs, On A Boat. In Pakistan.

I still have to meet someone that, when asked to describe one of their most memorable meals, will tell you that it was had in the middle of a commercial port …but if I were asked that same question, you would hear me tell you about a memorable crab feast I had for the first […]

Continue Reading
IMG_0609

Quick Snack: A Russian Samovar at the Ukrainian Frontlines

The front lines of the conflict in Eastern Ukraine are bleak, particularly in February. The areas around Debaltsevo, hotly contested between Ukrainian troops and separatists/Russian forces, are rolling hills of frosty farmland, now sallow and muddy. The Ukrainians are hunkered down in [redacted], taking shelter where they can and using makeshift stoves, the local coal […]

Continue Reading
IMG_0004

Quick Snack: Noshing at Putin’s Press Conference

Every year, Russian President Vladimir Putin holds a press conference for international media at a government building in Moscow. The media arrive early for security screening and to set up their equipment. As President Putin tends to answer questions for hours (this year it was 3, but has been as long as 5), a buffet […]

Continue Reading
IMG_4692

Quick Snack: Coffee and Dates in Saudi Arabia

The hospitality in Saudi Arabia is legendary; good thing, too, as the cultural conservatism that abounds makes it difficult for a girl like me to enjoy other food- and drink-based activities. Obviously, there are no bars (there aren’t even movie theaters!), so that’s out. Going to a restaurant is an isolating experience: the main dining […]

Continue Reading
(photo by Omar Omar)

Food on the Frontline: Syria and Iraq

Syrian food is fantastic, and as diverse as its neighbors in the Middle East: creamy hummus, fried kibbeh balls stuffed with spiced meat, rice dishes baked in phyllo dough, meatballs glazed in cherry sauce, flatbreads, baklavas, honeyed sweets, tea.  Sadly, none of that was available on the frontline, where the Syrian Kurds faced off with ISIS. […]

Continue Reading
IMG_4016

Iraq, the Land of Plenty (of Rice)

Road-tripping through Northern Iraq, I’ve stumbled on some interesting regional specialties amid the kebabs and hummus. In Serchinar Restaurant in Zahko (not far from the Syrian border), a platter of grilled meat was served with endless side dishes, including this bright green concoction I’d never seen before: Turns out it was banana slices served in […]

Continue Reading