Food Under Financial Fire: Eatin’ in Athens

It’s a rare day when I find myself on the road for work with neither headscarf nor flak jacket — but reporting on the Greek financial crisis was an excellent change of pace. Light clothes, sandals, tap water I could drink, street food I could eat… all without fear of dysentery or gunshots. I had […]

Continue Reading

An Iftar in Iran to Write Home About

  There are only a small handful of advantages to coming to Iran during Ramadan, but there are 2 that really make it worthwhile:  First, the notoriously insane 17-21 hour Tehran rush-hour dissipates into thin air and daylight becomes a blessedly calm time to navigate the city, as most people work half-days and are too […]

Continue Reading

A Forced Lunch with a Rebel Force

As we pulled up to the imposing and beautifully-built government palace, we could hear the faraway booms of Saudi bombs, and the very loud, very near crack-crack-crack of anti-aircraft fire. We were here to interview one of the new leaders of the Houthi rebels in Sana’a, and it suddenly felt like we were in a […]

Continue Reading

Street Snack in Yemen: Prickly Pears

It’s a sight common across the middle east — giant flatbed carts full of fruits and vegetables, pushed around by turbaned, and often wizened men, slinging the freshest produce of the season in that particular region. In Afghanistan, you’re struck by white mountains of oversized cauliflower and blood red pomegranates, some cut open to flaunt […]

Continue Reading

Outside Beirut, Home-Cooked Hospitality

It doesn’t take long to escape the traffic- and dust-clogged streets of Beirut. Just an hour spent bouncing around in the car will get you high into the hills, overlooking the corniche and the coastline, above the congestion and pollution. There you’ll find cedar trees (immortalized on the Lebanese flag), deep valleys and beautiful stone […]

Continue Reading

Tunis: Dine in the Souk… Or Eat with the Locals

Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, has one of the most amazing souks in the Middle East: a warren of stone streets lined with perfume shops, shoemakers, cafes, and countless souvenir hawkers. There is an amazing restaurant in the middle of the souk – Dar el Jeld – and if I hadn’t been working so hard, for such […]

Continue Reading

Quick Snack: Cereal… with a Treat

Presented nearly without comment…. Methinks many people in this unnamed hotel in Antakya, Turkey, are NOT eating cereal. These flakes must be several years old. This bug is slightly newer, but had a very nice life in the plastic tube of breakfast-y goodness. Perhaps he ate himself to death. Thankfully, I saw him before I […]

Continue Reading
photo 1

Kebab (of course!) and Baked Hummus in Adana

As our plane made its late-night descent into the Turkish town of Adana, I turned toward my seatmate, a young airplane mechanic who grew up here, in the Southern part of the country. “What’s the one thing I’ve got to eat while I’m in town?” I asked. “Adana Kebab, of course!” He replied. “It’s the […]

Continue Reading